Ina Garten appeared on this week's episode of Sunday Morning on
CBS and she inspired me to dust off one of my favorite cookbooks, “Barefoot in
Paris - Barefoot Contessa.”
I came across this
Blue Cheese Soufflé
recipe, and had to try it. Generally, I shy away from (read am terrified
of) recipes that require too many chemical reactions. For this reason, I’ve
never made bread, never made a merengue, never brewed beer by myself, never
made pizza dough – you get the gist. I’m envious of Pedro’s knack for these
types of cooking adventures, and enjoy helping him but have never ventured to
try a recipe like this on my own.
Nonetheless, I approached this soufflé with
confident optimism, and did it ever pay off!
One thing I learned about the process of making a
soufflé is that it essentially consists of two parts. The base sauce that
flavors the dish (can be salty or sweet) called the crème pâtissière, and the
whipped egg whites. You gently fold these two components together, and this is
what gives a soufflé its characteristic lift. Julia Childs’ cookbook “Mastering
the Art of French Cooking” provides an excellent overview of the proportions
required for each of these two components, which gives you the flexibility to
make any kind of soufflé you’d like. I recommend actually making a soufflé first,
using Ina’s recipe, and then diving in to Julia Childs’ chapter on the soufflé (she
gets a little technical and it would have been hard for me to understand
without having first experimented on one of my own).
When reading Ina’s recipe, I had to google “scalded
milk” to understand the subtlety of scalding milk vs. scorching it. It turns out, heating milk to 82 degrees
C helps to break down certain enzymes and proteins in the milk. It’s all magic
to me as to how this helps with the cooking of the soufflé, but important to
note nonetheless.
Finally a brief word about equipment. I had never
made merengue with egg whites before, and I absolutely can’t imagine doing this
by hand. In my opinion, a KitchenAid (or other kind of electric mixer) is a
must. So is cream of tartar to stabilize the whipped egg whites. In terms of
ramekins for baking a soufflé, Julia Childs mentions in her chapter that you
can almost use “any old baking” dish. This may be the case, but since I felt
like I was tempting fate by even embarking on this recipe in the first place, I
went ahead and bought a nice porcelain 64 oz. ramekin that I’m sure I’ll be
using for my next soufflé adventure.
Happy Soufflé-ing! And a special thank you to Pedro for supervising (and saving!) the crème pâtissière.
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